Sunday, July 11, 2010

Running of the Fools

I have just returned from Pamplona and the week-long fiesta of San Fermín, known in the States as The Running of the Bulls. Although I only lasted two days, I learned to appreciate everything the fiesta stands for and offers... maybe too much.

Let me start by describing my schedule (in military time because that is the way Europeans write it):
Thursday, July 8
18:00- Left Bilbao
20:00- Arrived in Pamplona to discover everyone wearing red and white and already presumedly drunk.
20:15- Bought a red sash (faja) and bandana (pañuelito) in order to fit in.
20:30- Arrived at friend's apartment where we would be sleeping the next couple nights (if we were lucky). Three bedrooms, twelve people, you do the math.
21:00- Became official ambassador to Texas Hold'em while we pre-partied.
24:00- Headed to a concert of a famous Basque band in the middle of a park.
Friday, July 9
02:00- Left the concert to go to the old town to party.
04:00- Found a sandwich stall to grab some energy food.
04:15- Back in the clubs dancing.
06:00- Left the bars to find a place to sit and watch the actual running of the bulls.
06:30- Sara decided to take a nap and passes out from exhaustion in the middle of the stairs (to her defense, she only got three hours of sleep the night before because she had an exam).








08:00- The running finally took place.
08:00:12- It's already over... but it was so FREAKING AWESOME.
08:15- Decided it was the perfect time to do souvenir shopping.
08:30- Had breakfast from a world-famous bakery.
09:00- Began to head back to the apartment.
09:30- Finally crashed, covered in sweat and alcohol.
...Woke up and repeated.

So maybe the whole schedule thing was a bit tiring and drawn out, but then again, try experiencing it for yourself. The main thing I took away from San Fermín was that this wasn't really a tribute to the famous tradition of the Encierro (the running), it is just an excuse to party. Thanks to Ernest Hemingway, San Fermín has become one of the largest and most famous parties in the world!

However, the encierro still plays its part. And to the die-hards and curious who aren't either too tired or drunk to miss it, the running of the bulls is a fascinating spectacle that will leave you in awe and admiration.


Unfortunately some of those drunk and tired people decide to run as well. As the fiesta continues to grow in popularity, so do the casualties, as young men and (sometimes) women choose to run simply for the photo and bragging rights. But don't let that deter you from experiencing it for yourself. 

San Fermín was one of the most amazing experiences of my life. It's a 24/7 party, where you hang out with friends and make new ones from around the world, where every night starts with fireworks and concerts, the Spanish traditions of the encierro and bullfights can be experienced daily, water fights break out in front of a bar, and parades sporatically start in the streets. 

But it is one of those events that can never be completely shared through description. Hemingway tried in his book Fiesta, but even he can't give it the justice it deserves. Next July, like the rest of the party-world, try and make a trip to Spain based around this festival. You won't regret it!

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